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THE BROWN DERBY — At one point, there were several of them in
Los Angeles but only one (the one on Wilshire opposite the Ambassador Hotel) was
constructed so that when you walked in the front door, it looked like you were
walking into a giant hat.
That was the original Brown Derby, which opened on Valentine's Day
of either 1926 or 1929 (accounts differ) and moved one block away in 1937. The other
main locations were (1) near
Hollywood and Vine, (2) near Wilshire and Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, and (3)
at Los Feliz Boulevard and Hillhurst in the Los Feliz area. There were
also a few short-lived ones in other spots. All served
mostly American fare in a semi-plush manner with very attentive service.
Apart from the gimmick of the name and pretty good food, they had
two things going for them. One was the Cobb Salad, which was invented at
the Brown Derby, which was owned by the Cobb family. As the delicacy caught on in other eateries, there was
much publicity as to where it had begun, and many people wanted to go and try
the original. Many people also wanted to dine where the stars ate, and
that was an even better reason to dine at the Derby. Like many restaurants
where the big attraction is celebrity clientele, the proprietors advertised
their famous patrons by covering the walls with their caricatures.
The Brown Derby near Hollywood and Vine was situated in area from
which many
network radio shows were broadcast, so stars were always eating there. It
was not uncommon for the cast of a program to do a performance for the East Coast,
then repair to The Derby for food and libation before returning to the studio
for the West Coast transmission. This caused the Brown Derby to be
mentioned often on their shows. When TV shows began to emanate from some of
the same studios in the fifties, there were occasional live remotes from that
Brown Derby. The Ralph Edwards show, This is Your Life, always
began by surprising some celebrity, often in a location very close to the studio
from which the program was telecast. During the years that This is Your
Life came from the Pantages Theater on Hollywood Boulevard, they often used the Derby, which was
right around the corner. The night Edwards surprised Harold Lloyd there, Groucho Marx was in the next booth (on a break from filming You Bet Your Life
at NBC's nearby Sunset and Vine studio) and Marx began heckling Edwards as the
latter attempted to hustle Mr. Lloyd across Vine Street. Well, who
wouldn't want to eat in a place where that kind of thing happened?
The Sunset-Vine Brown Derby also had a lovely banquet room and
courtyard so it was the scene of many wrap parties and show biz press
gatherings. All that "in" spot mystique spilled over to the Beverly Hills
location and gave it a similar rep. On I Love Lucy, when Lucy, Fred
and Ethel arrived in Hollywood and wanted to go somewhere to see the stars, they
went to the Brown Derby...where Lucy caused a plate of food to be dumped on the
head of Brown Derby regular William Holden. That was probably good for
another five years of tourists flocking to the place.
Eventually though, business declined and Brown Derbies began
closing down. I was an occasional patron of the Hollywood/Vine one in its
last years, largely because I was working on a TV show that taped at the
Sunset-Gower Studio a few blocks away. I recall being impressed with the
history but unimpressed with the food...and somewhat bothered by the obsequious
service. The host and waiters fawned over everyone who walked in the door
like they were royalty and it seemed awfully antiquated and phony, at least to
me. In any case, it was no longer the kind of place where Groucho and Bill
Holden might drop by for a bite, so its main attraction was gone.
That Derby closed in '85, the same year the Los Feliz branch
turned into a night club. In the last few decades, much effort has gone
into preserving the giant hat from the Wilshire location as a historical
landmark. The only remaining Brown Derby is located at the Disney-MGM
Studio theme park in Florida. I don't know why they don't buy the big hat
and just ship it on down there.


SCHWAB'S PHARMACY — Legend has it that Lana Turner was
discovered for movies as she sat at the lunch counter at Schwab's Drugstore at
Sunset and Crescent Heights, which is seen in the above picture. This is
almost certainly not true. For one thing, they used to tell that story as
if it had occurred at one of the other Schwab's Pharmacies — the one further down Sunset near Doheny.
When
it was torn down, the legend shifted to the one at Crescent Heights. And
the story probably wasn't true even before that because Ms. Turner always told
people she was spotted by a talent scout in a cafe called the Hi Hat across the
street from Hollywood High School. (And even that may not be true, as
others say she was found via agents and the usual submission process, and the
whole story of being discovered while eating lunch was a press agent
concoction.)
So then, what was the big deal about the Schwab's at Sunset and
Crescent Heights? Beats me. Seemed to me like a perfectly ordinary,
poorly-stocked
drugstore with a small luncheonette area. My impression is that in the
sixties and maybe before, as big chain drugstores grew all over Southern
California, less and less of Schwab's business was in that area so they kept
expanding the dining sections. Most of what they sold in the drug/pharmacy
area seemed to be make-up such as a wanna-be actress might purchase.
But the lunch area was pleasant enough, and while you couldn't get
discovered there, you might spot a lot of people who had made it into movies and
TV shows...maybe not in the star roles but it was a big hangout for actors.
I don't mean Big Stars. I mean (mostly) supporting players, including many
of the "Oh, that guy" variety where you know the face but can't place the name
to save your life. I don't think I ever ate there without seeing Dick Miller, who was
so good in all those Roger Corman pictures.
During Breakfast hours, it was practically like a club — the
same folks at the same tables. When Schwab's closed down in 1983, that
group began drifting from restaurant to restaurant, never managing to find a
venue that was as good and actor-friendly. In the meantime, the old
Schwab's location was torn down, replaced by a shopping center built around a
Virgin Megastore. Also demolished to make way for that complex was Harry's
Wood-Pit Barbecue. The Virgin is a nice place but I'd much rather have
Schwab's and Harry's.
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